Once you've checked out the route ahead as best you can, and you're quite clear where you intend to exit the other side, get back into your vehicle and prepare to cross. Select low ratio, first gear (second, if obviously very muddy, to minimise wheel spin). Need I mention centre diff lock? You should have the message by now! Enter the water at the shallowest and most gradual point and pick your way through your pre-determined route as slowly as you can, and up and out of the other side. Don't rush the water, or it will get up into the engine bay, which you don't want.

If the water is standing at full wading depth, your front bumper or steering guard will push a bow wave forward, giving a depression under the engine bay, which will help keep this area free from water. Driving too fast, though, through deep water may not give you a good bow wave as your speed will shatter this wave and you'll run the risk of drowning the engine. Personally, I prefer to err on the side of safety, and drive slower rather than faster.

Don't forget to dry off brakes when you reach the far side, by gently 'left foot' braking for a while.

It's often said that you should loosen the fan belt to stop the fan from throwing water over the engine, before crossing deep water. On the older Land Rovers this is easily done, but with newer models you can often find up to three drive belts, none of which are easily adjusted. In any case, it's usually the crankshaft pulley that spins the water up first.

If you really want to prepare for lots of deep wading, fit an electric fan instead, and switch it off before you cross.

As regards the intakes for fresh air heaters, which appear on either of the sides of the front wings, or on top of them on newer Land Rovers, consider blanking the grilles with gaffer tape. If you end up shifting a lot of water, and the blower unit is switched on, you could get drenched inside!

If you think there is a likelihood of getting stuck in the water, then have a towrope already attached to the front to assist in a quick recovery. There's nothing worse than trying to attach a rope with a shackle right under deep water. If you do become stuck, either you or your passenger - don't they come in useful? - can climb out of the window, unhook the loose end of the rope draped around the spare wheel on the bonnet or the roof rack, and throw it to a helping hand on the bank, from where they can hook it to a recovery vehicle.

Another point is to ensure that your engine remains running. If the weight of the water in front becomes too much of a drag for the gear you are in, slip the clutch slightly, rather than risk stalling the engine. The same applies, should the wheels become bogged in the mud under the water's surface.

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(c)Goodwinch Limited 2006